Overedge sewing machines



March 5, 1963 v. J. SIGODA EIAI. 3,079,379

' OVEREDGE SEWING MACHINES Filed Nov. 30, 1959 l2 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTORS V/cTo/Q J. 5/000 Wiser-ON A. 5/6004 A TTOQ/YEY March 5, 1963 v. J. SIGODA EI'AL OVEREDGE SEWING MACHINES l2. Sheets-$heet 3 Filed Nov. 30, 1959 Tic. 13.

INVENTORb 14 J. $16004 MEQTOII A. 5/6004 March 5, 1963 v. J. SIGODA ETAL OVEREDGE SEWING MACHINES l2 Sheets-Sheet 4 Filed Nov. 30, 1959 INVENTORS Mew-o1 1. SIGODA v. J. SIGODA ETA]. 3,079,879

OVEREDGE SEWING MACHINES March 5, 1963 Filed Nov. 30, 1959 1.2 Sheets-Sheet 6 INVENTQR-S V/cro J. $23004 Mawv/v A 81600 March 5, 1963 v. J. SIGODA EI'AL OVEREDGE SEWING MACHINES l2 Sheets-Sheet '7 Filed Nov. '30, 1959 INVENTORS Marc? J. SIGODA Mien/1 ,4 816004 A Trap/95v V. J. SIGODA ETA].

OVEREDGE SEWING MACHINES March 5, 1963 l2. Sheets-Sheet 8 Filed NOV. 30, 1959 A a m u I iv fl'.

l lcroe Mar /1 A. SIGODA fro/9N March 5, 1963 Filed Nov. 30, 1959 V. J. SIGODA ETA].

OVEREDGE SEWING MACHINES 12 Sheets-Sheet 9 1N VEN TORS l/mro J. SIG-00A M ro y $1600 9 March 5, 1963 v. J. SIGODA ET AL OVEREDGE SEWING MACHINES 1.2 Sheets-Sheet 10 Filed Nov. 30, 1959 lau h-HE;

VII

INVENTORB H A, S A J N Wm 7 E M V. B E l. i

March 5, 1963 v. J. SIGODA EI'AL 3,079,379

OVEREDGE SEWING MACHINES Filed Nov. 30, 1959 1.2 Sheets-Sheet 11 Ti l5 INVENTORS More d. S/GooA Meerorv A \S/GODA March 5, 1963 v. J. SIGODA ETAL 3,079,879

' OVEREDGE SEWING MACHINES File d Nov. 50, 1959 12 Sheets-Sheet 12 INVENTORS V/o'ro/ J. 5 1600A Near-cw A. 51600 A TTOE/YEY 3,979,879 @VEREDGE SEWENG MACHEFJES Victor 3. Sigotla, Great Neck, and Merton A. Sigoda,

Roslyn Heights, N.Y., assignors to Man-Sew fiat-poretion, New Yorlr, N31, a corporation of New York Filed Nov. 39, 1959, Ser. No. 856,139 24- Claims. {*Cl. 112-162) This invention relates to the production of overedge stitching alone or in conjunction with a stabilizing seam in a single sewing operation. More particularly, it relates to sewing machines of the needle-feed type which may be converted in accordance with the invention to produce such types of stitching.

In pending application Serial No. 511,933, filed May 31, 1955 now Patent No. 2,973,731, there has been disclosed a device for the production of overedge stitching in the form of an attachment for a standard single needle sewing machine to convert it for the manufacture of dual or compound seams in a single sewing operation. This application, insofar as it relates to an attachment of such nature, is a continuation-in-part of that pending application.

The sewing machine shown therein is limited in handling heavier fabrics or many layers of fabric mainly because of the problem of slippage of the top layers during feeding which is encountered in the sewing of heavier work such as is found mostly in mens wear and in some of the bulkier womens garments. The machine which is converted in accordance with the disclosure of the instant application is of the needle-feed type such as typically, the Sings 300W class. The converted machine shown being the 300W 205 version. Similar machines are shown in United States Patents No. 2,329,681 to Zeier and No. 2,722,186 to Pofienberger. This is the type of machine in which the needles remain in the work as it is fed rearwardiy, whereas in the machine of the earlier application, the needles are withdrawn completely from the work as it is fed rearwardly. This arrangement overcomes the slippage problem mentioned.

In the sewing machine illustrated herein, the needle feed is accomplished by supporting the reciprocating needles in a carrier which is centrally pivoted so that the carrier, and the needles, can rock along the line of feed with the feed movements and in synchronism therewith. This rocking of the needles with the feed presents problems in the formation of overedge stitching, and it is the solutions of those problems which constitute the main inventive features of this application.

Accordingly, it has been a main object of the invention to devise means whereby sewing machines of the needle-feed variety may be converted for the production of overedge sttiching either by itself or in conjunction with a line of stabilizing stitches.

in the class of machine which is converted in accordance with the invention herein, one basic version is arranged to produce two lines of two-thread chainstitching of Federal Type 401; other versions are available which produce more lines of chainstitching, for instance, the Pofienberger patent shows a machine construction capable of producing four lines of such stitching simultaneously. Basically, in all varieties, each line of stitching is produced by a vertically reciprocating threaded needle in cooperation with a threaded underlooper and a laterally shifting spreader finger. The looper is provided with a simple rocking movement parallel to and along the line of feed, toward the operator, for needle thread loop interception and shedding since the spreader finger provides the equivalent of shifting the underlooper laterally.

In the two needle version which is the subject of this conversion, it may readily be appreciated that if the left hand needle be disabled, such as by being left unthreaded or by being removed, only the line of stitching produced by the right hand needle will be formed, so it is apparent that it only the right hand line of stitching is active in the converted machine, only overedge stitching will be produced, whereas, if both lines of stitching are active, the conversion will result in a machine which produces a line of stabilizing chainstitching in addition to the overedge stitching.

it will be helpful to an understanding of the conversion if the formation of the chainstitching normally produced by this needle-feed machine is first considered. The threaded needle descends through the work and appears beneath the needle-plate, reaches the lowest point of its stroke and begins to ascend. This causes the formation of a thread loop near the eye of the needle. The forward movement of the threaded underlooper is timed so that the point of the underlooper is in the vicinity of the needle thread loop at this particular instant, and thus the interception of the needle thread loop occurs as the underlooper moves forwardly toward the operator, inserting the underlooper thread through the intercepted needle thread loop. The movement of the spreader finger is correlated so that as the underlooper moves forwardly, the finger is in position at the leftward end of its stroke to intercept the underlooper thread and carry it rightwardly as the movement of the spreader finger is reverse The spreader finger is carried by a bar which is reciprocated across the line of feed.

These interactions elognate the intercepted underlooper thread loop and cause this loop to form into a thread triangle, the three points of which are defined, first by the portion of the underlooper thread caught and held to the side of the underlooper by the needle thread loop still on the body of the underlooper; second by the engagement oi the underlooper thread with the spreader finger; and third, by the eye of the underlooper. This thread triangle ensures that the needle point will enter and engage the underlooper thread loop on the next descent of the needle which is a requisite for the interchaining.

In other types of sewing machines, the feed action moves the work rearwardly between successive needle penetrations when the needle is out of the work, but in this class of machine, the feed action moves the work while the needle is in the Work and still descending through the thread triangle and as the subsequent looper and spreader actions are taking place. Despite this needle movement along the line of feed, the needle always enters the thread triangle because the construction and arrangement of the members and of their interactions provide a sufficiently elongated triangle, and this is true even if the stitch length be varied from one extreme to the other.

The needle enters this thread triangle on its next descent to form a second stitch while the underlooper is still moving rearwardly. The needle reaches the bottom of its stroke and the underlooper reaches its most rearward position at about the same instant. As the needle rises and forms a new thread loop, the underlooper moves forwardly quickly to intercept this new needle thread loop and then passes through it, carrying the underlooper thread through this new thread loop with the first thread triangle loop now wrapped about the needle body above the newly intercepted needle thread loop. This firmly fixes or sets the initial underlooper thread loop above the newly formed and intercepted needle thread loop, and the cycle repeats.

This stitch sequence is utilized and modified to form a new type of over-edge stitching in the conversion of this 3 class of machine in a manner which will subsequently be fully detailed. It will be helpful to an understanding thereof however to preview the method by which this chain'stitch is manipulated into overedge stitching, it being remembered that only the right hand line of stitching is so treated.

It wll be appreciated that if the underlooper thread triangle were to be drawn further to the right past the edge of the work, that it would be possible then to pass a thread from a threaded vertical looper upwardly through this thread triangle and that it would be possible to move this vertical looper upwardly along the edge of the work sufiiciently so that a threaded upper looper above the surface of the work could, in turn, intercept the thread of the vertical looper. It would then be possible to pass this upper looper through the thread of the vertical looper leftwardly to the path of needle reciprocation for interception by the needle of the thread carried by this upper looper on the next descent of the needle through the work to complete an overedge stitch formation. Such a line of stitching, somewhat like Federal Type 602, would differ somewhat on the surface of the work, but would be quite different on the under'surface of the work because the sequence of interceptions varies considerably from that utilized in existing machines which now produce Federal Type 602 stitching.

It can be readily appreciated by those familiar with the art that substitution of spreaders for the threaded vertical and upper loopers would result, depending upon whether one or both were replaced, in either two thread overedge stitching somewhat similar to Federal Type 503 or in three thread overedge varieties somewhat similar to Federal Types 504 and 505, except for the arrangement of the threads on the unde-rsurface of the work.

The four thread version is presently preferred in the conversion which will be described because it combines the main advantages of both of Types 504 and 505 stitchings. The Type 504, because the amount of thread in the needle thread loops which are on the undersurface of the work is at a minimum, is efiective to bind the fabric layers together more tightly than any of the other types of overedge stitching, and this provides a minimum of undesirable gapping or grinning as it is known in the trade, between layers when the garment is being worn and the steam is put under tension. In the Type 505, since the needle thread loops on the undersurface of the work are carried to the very edge, grinning is much more pronounced. However, the Type 505, because of the box-like arrangement of the threads along the edge of the work, affords better edge coverage and serves to prevent fraying of the fabric fibres and to confine such frayed fibres as already exist.

Accordingly, it has been another object to provide a sewing machine which can be utilized to form a type of overedge stitching having the advantages of both the Federal Types 504 and 505 varieties.

The formation of overedge stitching as outlined above is described without reference to any interval inwhich the sequence of interceptions necessary for the formation of the complete stitch takes place. If this period were to be defined as being between two successive needle penetrations, which may better be represented as 360 degrees of mainshaft rotation, it can be appreciated, that as compared to the sequence of interceptions required for the formation of the chainstitch from which it derives, the spreader finger, vertical looper and, upper looper would have to perform their additional sequential interceptions in only a relatively small portion of the total 360 degree stitch cycle; that is, between the instant that the underlooper first presents its thread to the spreader finger for interception and the next descent of the needle.

In order for these additional interceptions to be completed within this shorter period, these members would have to be operated at very high rates of speed as compared to the movements of the needle and underlooper.

Such high rates of speed would not only introduce considerably greater wear on the parts involved, with increased maintenance requirements, but would also make the successive interceptions much less certain because of overthrow which is experienced with rapidly moving parts which are stopped suddenly.

To maintain a desirable one-to-one relationship between the operating speeds of the needle and underlooper on the one hand, and of the new vertical and upper loopers on the other, the sequence of interceptions has been spread out over a period defined by 720 degrees of mainshaft rotation, or in the interval between three successive needle penetrations, or two complete stitch cycles. As sequenced herein, a complete overedge stitch is formed for every needle penetration (except the very first of a series which is not always complete, but which is really of no particular consequence). This is brought about by starting a second stitch formation 360 degrees after the start of a first stitch formation, so that, although 720 degrees of maireshaft rotation are required for each complete overedge stitch formation, this overlapping sequence results in one complete overedge stitch formation being produced for each reciprocation of the needle, after the very first.

Accordingly, it has been a further object to provide a mode of operation for an overedge stitch producing sewing machine whereby the speed of operation of certain additional elements which by their addition normally would be required to be operated at higher rates of speed, can be maintained at a onetoone relationship with the operating speed of the existing elements.

The needle-feed action of this class of machine, which as was previously pointed out is a very desirable feature, introduces a substantial problem in the production of overedge stitching. In previous types of overedge producing machines, the needle operates along a fixed path, either in a vertical reciprocation or in a substantially horizontal oscillation. In the instant machine, the needle path moves along the line of feed in unison therewith. Ensuring proper registration of an upper looper with a reciprocating needle whose path of operation shifts in such a manner is extremely difiicult if the upper looper is operated from a fixed location, and this ditiiculty is compounded if the length of stitch is varied from one extreme to the other, as is necessary in any machine surtable for commercial use, as the extent of movement of the needle bar carrier must be changed to correspond with the increase or decrease in movement of the feed action, which as is well known, determines the stitch length.

This problem is solved herein by an approach which utilizes an upper looper support bracket which travels with the needle-feed operating mechanism and thus it becomes possible to shift the position of the upper looper in unison with the change of position of the needle path. The desired fixed relationship between the upper looper and the needle may thereby be maintained. One variation of this bracket may also provide support for the vertical looper as well, and this arrangement makes it possible to position both the upper and vertical loopers in relatively fixed positions for proper coordination.

Accordingly, it has been another object to provide upper looper supporting means which is adapted to maintain a fixed operating relationship between an upperlooper and the reciprocating needle as the needle path is shifted in the feeding of the work. It has been a further object to provide means for similarly supporting a vertical looper along with an upper looper for unison operation with the needle-feed action of the sewing machine.

'sufiicient for the original purpose but which is incapable of providing sufficient throw of the spreader finger to carry the underlooper thread triangle beyond the edge of the work for interception by the vertical looper. Other means for producing sufiicient lateral shifting must therefore be provided.

The presently preferred manner for obtaining this additional lateral shifting of the spreader finger utilizes the original spreader bar journalled in the bed of the machine to carry the spreader finger but replaces the drive mechanism therefor with a connection to the drive mechanism for the new loopers which can provide the additional extent of reciprocation required for the conversion. Since this increased extent of reciprocation would affect the formation of the stabilizing line of chainstitching when it is used, this is overcome by repositioning the spreader finger on the spreader bar so that the increased extent of reciprocation takes place before the chainstitch underlooper thread is engaged. This increased extent of lateral excursion may however be utilized to draw the thread triangle of the chainstitch underlooper laterally to the right so that the overedge needle will enter not only its own underlooper thread triangle but the chainstitch underlooper thread triangle to form another type of cover stitch. If the upper looper thread be omitted in such an arrangement, and a spreader be employed in lieu thereof, the resulting stitch formation would resemble Federal Types 4G2 and 406, except that the arrangement of the threads on the undersurface of the work would be different.

A different line of approach is to retain the chainstitch spreader finger on the spreader bar in its original position, but to remove the overedge spreader finger from the bar, and to provide additional, independent mechanism for shifting the spreader finger for the overedge stitch formation. One version of this approach would be to mount a support for this overedge spreader finger so that the finger may be rocked about a horizontal pivot with a range of movement sufficient to engage the underlooper thread and to carry it to the region in which the vertical looper operates. Another version of this approach would be to provide a support for a vertical axis about which a member carrying the spreader finger could be oscillated to provide the same range of spreader action. Both versions could be driven from the drive mechanism which operates the vertical and upper loopers.

In another approach, the support for such a spreader finger, whether operated about a horizontal or vertical axis, couid be attached to the swing bracket which carries the upper looper or the upper and vertical loopers,

as the case may be, in unison with the needle-feed action, and the rocking movements could be obtained as mentioned in connection with the other versions.

It therefore has been a further object to provide suitable means for engaging the overedge underlooper thread so that it may be drawn sufficiently beyond the edge of the work for positive interception by a vertical looper, and it has been another object to provide means whereby in addition to shifting the overedge underlooper thread, additional shifting is also provided for the thread triangle of the chainstitch underlooper to utilize such additional shifting to form new types of cover stitching.

it is desirable to trim the edge of the work prior to overedging so that a neat and uniform overedge seam may result. The cutter mechanism provided herein consists of a movable cutter member which is driven from the same operating mechanism which operates the new loopers. The stationary cutter member in addition to having a sheer edge is also provided with a stitch tongue which assists in the proper formation of the overedge stitching and permits chaining off, and is mounted on a support which may also provide the vertical axis support for one spreader finger drive version.

Accordingly, it has been an object to provide a support means for one cutting member which may also provide support for vertical axis operation of a spreader finger, and it has been a further object to provide a cutter member having a portion adapted to act as a stitch tongue.

The invention is disclosed herein as applied to a sewing machine similar in construction to that shown in the mentioned Zeier and Pofr'enberger patents. Such sewing machines have two principal characteristics; they are firstly, multiple line, two-thread chainstitch machines, and secondly, needle-feed sewing machines. Insofar as the principles disclosed herein relate to the manipulation of a portion or portions of chainstitch threads into overedge stitching, it will be seen that such principles may also apply to other sewing machines of the same general chainstitch type in which a laterally shifting spreader finger cooperates with an underlooper which is operated parallel to and along the line of feed.

it may therefore be pointed out that because a large number of two (or more) line chainstitching machines of this type, made by various manufacturers, are already in use, increased utilization of such machines may be obtained by conversion for the production of overedge and cover stitching according to the principles disclosed here It is true, of course, that the same principles may also be applied to the design and manufacture of complete machines of such character initially.

insofar as the principle of carrying the upper and vertical loopers on a support member which moves in unison with the needle-feed action is disclosed, it is apparent that this may also be applied to other sewing machines having needle-feed actions, whether of this particular type of chainstitch or not.

it should therefore be understood that with appropriate modification, the invention may be incorporated into other sewing machines whether of this particular brand of manufacture or others, so long as the disclosed principles are compatible with the construction of such machines. It should therefore be further understood that the followin description and the drawings are merely illustrative and should not be construed in a limiting sense. Other features and objects of the invention in part will be obvious and in part will be pointed out hereinafter.

in the accompanying drawings:

PEG. 1 is a front elevational view of a sewing machine of the needle-feed type to which the invention has been applied, part of the machine standard having been broken away to show the power take-off gear drive mechanism for operating the drive mechanisms for the new loopers, the cutter and certain versions of the spreader finger;

FIG. 2 is a rear view of the machine shown in FIG. 1;

FIG. 3 is an end elevational view of the machine shown in H6. 1, the cover for the needle-head having been omitted;

PEG. 4 is a top plan view showing the drive box and the operating mechanism contained therein; said drive box being shown attached to one section of the clothplate substantially as the unit is just before it is mounted on the sewing machine;

FIGS. 5 and 6 are front elevational views of the drive box and cloth-plate section, showing different positions of the vertical looper and of the preferred drive version for the spreader finger;

H68. 7 and 8 are detail sectional views taken on lines 7-7 and 8-8 of FIG. 4 respectively, showing various drive members;

9 is a detail sectional view taken on line 9-9 of FIG. 8 showing the drive linkage for the cutter mechanism; I

FIG. 10 is a detail view in perspective of the region of the sewing machine in which the stitch formations take place, the needle-plate having been omitted, the cutting members being shown in operating position;

PEG. 11 is a detail view in perspective, partly in section, showing the needle-feed drive bracket and its connection with the main-shaft, and the support bracket for carrying the upper looper in unison with the needle-feed action;

FIG. 12 is a detail view in perspective of the region of the sewing machine in which the stitch formations take place similar to FIG. but taken from another angle; FIG. 13 is a top plan, detail view showing an alternate version for operating the spreader finger about a hori- Zontal axis;

FIG. 14 is a top plan, detail view showing another version for oscillating the spreader finger about a vertical axis;

FIG. is a front view, in perspective, of the drive mechanism for operating the spreader version shown inFlG.'l3;

FIG. 16 is a front view, in perspective, of the drive mechanism for, operating the spreader version shown in FIG. 14;

FIG. l7 is a plan view showing the modified needleplate, the modified feed-dog operating therein, a portion of the stationary cutter showing its shear edge and the portion which acts as a stitch tongue, and the slide-plate which normally closes up the cloth-plate section about the needles, partly'displaced;

" FIG. 18 is an enlarged perspective view of a fragment of the work showing the trimmed edge and the top surface of the work with four thread overedge stitching somewhat similar to Federal Type 602, covering the edge of the work, and a line of Federal Type 401 chainsti'tching spaced inwardly therefrom; 7

FIG. 19 is a view similar to that shown in FIG. 18 except that the edge covering formation is a three thread version;

FIG. isan enlarged perspective view of a fragment of the work showing the trimmed edge and the undersurface of the work as it appears when the four thread version of the edge covering stitch is applied, also show- -ing the thread formation on the undersurface of the work for the Federal Type 401 stitching;

FIG. 21 is an enlarged perspective view of a fragment of the Work showing the trimmed edge and the undersurface of the work similar to that shown in FIG. 20, except that the chainstitch underlooper thread loop isshown in the position it takes about the corresponding overedge needle thread loop when the spreader finger for the chainstitching is given sufiicien-t lateral excursion to carry the chainstitch underlooper thread loop sufiiciently to the right so that the overedge needle not only intercepts the overedge underlooper thread loop but the chainstitch underlooper thread loop as well; and

FIG. 22 is a detail view corresponding to FIG. 11 showing in broken line a modification in which the support fortbe vertical looper is formed integrally with the support bracket for the upper looper which permits both of these loopers to travel in unison with the needle-feed action.

The Sewing Machine Thesewing machine consists of a bed 1 fromrone end of which rises the standard 2 of a hollow bracket-arm 4 which overhangs the bed and which terminates at its free longitudinally reciprocating needle-bar 1% which, in this version, carries a pair of needles 11 and 12 at its lower end. A 'presser-foot 13 is carried by the presser-bar 14 which is also mounted for longitudinal movement in the needle-head 5 in the usual way.

Bed is covered by a-two-section cloth-plate 15. Section 15a, disposed at the needle-head end of the bed, is provided with a slide-plate 16 shown in FIG. 17 which may be removed to permit ready access to the underlying mechanism as when threading the under-loopers, and immediatcly under pressure-foot 13, there is provided a needle-plate 18. Acting through suitable slots in needleplate 18 is a feed-dog 19 which cooperates with presserfoot 14 to effect feeding of the work past the stitching mechanism, the feed-dog 19 being carried at the end of a feed-bar 2%. The feed-dog is actuated through the normal four motion cycle by mechanism not further described herein which is conventional. Similar feed mechanism is shown and described in the US. patent to Zeier, No. 2,292,258 of August 4, 1942.

Underloopers 21 and 22 which are normally adapted to cooperate with their respective needles 11 and 12 in the formation of two-thread chainstitches, are secured to a looper-carrying bar 24. Bar 24 is rocked parallel to the line of feed by mechanism described in the mentioned Poffenberger patent. Cooperating with underloopers 21 and 22 are a pair of loop spreading finger 25 and 26 which are carried by a bar 28 which is recipr'ocated laterally across the line of feed. Reciprocation is provided by mechanism (not shown) consisting of an eccentric rotated by shaft 9 which vertically oscillates a strap con nected by a ball-joint to a cross-shaft mounted above shaft 9 parallel to the line of feed. An arm mounted on the cross-shaft is pivotally connected to a yoked por-,

tion at the inner end of spreader finger carrying bar 28. Bar 28 is journalled for reciprocation in aligned bearings in the bed of the machine below the cloth-plate 15 on a line parallel to the axis of shaft 9 and hence across the line of feed. As shaft 9 rotates spreader fingers 25 and 26 are carried across the lineof feed by the reciprocation of bar 28. This mechanism is conventional and is a part of the machine as sold commercially. It is therefore believed that no further description or illustratiou is required. The alternate forms for producing the spreader finger action will be subsequently fully detailed.

The sewing machine as so far described produces multiple lines of two-thread chainstitching of the Federal Type 401 by the interaction of the needles, underloopers and the spreader fingers as previously indicated.

The needle-feed action of the machine is provided by additional mechanism. Referring to FIGS. 2 and 11, it,

will be seen that main-shaft 6 carries an eccentric 29 which rotates in and oscillates a strap-link 30 which is pivotally connected to the free end of a crescent shaped arm 31. "The other end of arm 31 is fixed to a shaft 32 which is journalled in a boss 34 at the inner side of the needle-head 5. It will be appreciated that as mainshaft 6 rotates, shaft 32 will oscillate in unison therewith. As may be seen in FIG. 3, to the end of shaft 32 which is within the needle-head 5, there is fixed a support bracket 35 for the needle-bar 10 which carries needles 11 and 12. Since bracket 35 is thus pivotally supported by shaft 32, as main-shaft 6 rotates, bracket 35 will swing about shaft 32 along a line parallel to the line of feed or stitching and that the reciprocating needle-bar will therefore swing in the same way. The usual crank andpitman connection at the end of main-shaft 6 reciprocates the needle-bar as it is swung.

Eccentric 29 is of the adjustable type which permits the extent of swing to be altered in accordance with the desired stitch length. his to be understood that in machines of this type that in conjunction with the mechanisms for adjusting the stitch length, provision ismade for correlating the extent of swing of the needle-bar,

support bracket and of the longitudinal throw of the feed-bar and feed-dog. This is done by providing reference characters on indicators associated with each of the adjusting mechanisms so that suitable coordinate adjustment of needle-bar swing andfced-dog throw may be 9 made. Since these mechanisms are merely incidental to the normal functioning of the sewing machine, they will not be described further.

Modification of the Sewing Machine In adapting the sewing machine for the conversion, an additional drive gear 35 is fixed on the lower feed and looper actuating shaft 9 and an opening 38 on the inner side of standard 2 and suitable relief in the bed of the machine (not shown) are provided for clearance for a gear train 4i 41 which meshes with gear 36 when the device is installed on the cloth-plate of the machine. Cloth-plate section 15b which is disposed under arm 4 and is separately and independently removable from the bed of the machine is either modified, or replaced by a plate of similar size and contour. In either event, platesection lSb is provided with openings through which mounting bolts may be passed to secure the drive box 42. th reto so that the drive box may thereby be mounted on the machine under arm 4. Plate-section 15b is also provided either with a longitudinal slot 44 or a clearance notch 45' in its front edge to suit the requirements of the particular form of alternate drive mechanism for the spreader finger which is used in the conversion.

The vertical wall 46, at the front of the machine'bed near the region of the needle and underlooper interaction, is drilled and tapped to provide mounting holes for a support bracset 48 on which the stationary member of the cutting mechanism is mounted. Support bracket 43 may also act as a support for a member which affords a vertical axis for one of the spreader finger drive versions.

A suitably modified needle-plate 18 and a suitably modified feed-dog 19, both shown in FIG. 17, and a Substitute resser-foot shown in FIG. 3, are used in the conversion. The necessary modification of slide-plate 16 is indicated in FIG. 17.

T he Drive Box and Driving Mechanisms As best seen in FIG. 4, the drive box 42 is an oiltight casting, L-shape in form which has suitable internal and external bosses in which the various operating shafts may be suitably journalled either in sleeve bushings or in anti-friction bearings, as desired. When it is installed on the machine, the drive box is sealed by a gasketed cover which contains the lubricating oil reservoired in the drive box.

As best seen in FIG. 7, main drive shaft 49, journalled in bosses in walls and 51, carries externally of wall 51, a gear 41, and internally, helical drive gear 52 and cutter actuating eccentric 54. The boss on the exterior of wall 51 is encircled by a support 55 for gear it? which is mounted on a stud shaft 56 retained in support 55'. Gear support 55 has a clamp portion 58 by means of which it may be fixed in position about the boss to permit proper engagement of gear it? with drive gear 36 when the drive box 42., attached to plate-section 15b, is installed on the machine bed with gears 49 and 41 passing through the clearance opening 38.

Drive gear 52 is in mesh with helical gear 59 fixed on cross-shaft 59 which is journalled in bosses in walls 61 and 62. Cross-shaft so carries drive eccentric 6 for an operating shaft for certain versions of the spreader finger drive mechanism; drive eccentric 65 for an operating shaft for the vertical looper; and drive eccentric 65 for the upper threaded looper or spreader.

Eccentric 64- is encircled by a strap-link 63 whose free end connects with a drive arm as fixed on shaft it? which is journalled in a boss on wall 61. Eccentric 65 is encircled by strap-link 71 whose free end is connected to arm 72 fixed on shaft 74 which is journalled in a boss in wall 75. Eccentric 65 is similarly encircled by straplink 76 whose free end is connected to arm 78 fixed on shaft 79.

Cutter actnating'eccentric 54a is likewise encircled by 19 strap-link 3% whose free end is connected to arm 81 fast on shaft 82.

Cutter actuating eccentric 54 is likewise encircled by ingly, shaft 49 rotates in a one-to-one relationship with shaft 9.

Upper LOOpcr Unison Travel Support Bracket As mentioned, at least the upper threaded looper (or an unthreaded spreader) is caused to travel in unison with the needle-feed. A support bracket 35 fixed to arm 31 (see PEG. 11) has a bore parallel to the line of stitching, in which tube as is 'adjustably fixed, as by set screws 88. Within tube 36 upper looper operating shaft 89 is journalled for oscillation. At the end of shaft 89 nearest the needle 12, a support block 9% clamped thereon, carries a threaded looper (or unthreaded spreader) 91. At the other end of shaft 89 (see FIG. 4), arm 92 clamped thereon, connects with a ball-joint rod end hearing fixed on the end of connecting rod 95. Rod 95 is pivotally attached to arm 96 clamped on shaft 79 by a similar ball-joint rod end bearing 98. Hence, as arm 31'. swings to produce the needle-feed action, it carries support tube 86 with it, and at the same time, eccentric 66 through its linkage oscillates shaft 3; and the looper or spreader 91.

By means of the set screws 5%, the position of looper 91 with respect to its needle 12 may be suitably adjusted by shifting tube 86 bodily along the line of stitching to the requisite position. This permits compensation to be made as required by adjustments in the stitch length.

Vertical Looper Support Referring to H68. 5 and 6, it will be seen that at the lower left portion of drive box 42, a bearing parallel to the line of stitching, is provided for shaft liii) on which bellcrank lever llll is pivo -tally mounted. cured to the lower end of lever it)? is a vertical looper support arm 162 which is provided with clamp means for retaining the vertical looper m4. A double balljointed connecting rod 1 35 pivotally connecting the upper end of lever 161 with the lower end of arm 1 36 clamped on shaft 74 causes the vertical looper iil l to oscillate about shaft lit-ti as eccentric 65 rotates.

it is apparent that if the bearing for shaft 1% were to be incorporated into a downwardly depending arm on the support bracket as indicated in H6. 22 instead of being fixed to the drive box 42, that such a sup port arrangement would permit the vertical looper to also travel in unison with the needle-feed action.

T he Bottom Spreader Finger Drive Mechanisms As mentioned, spreader finger 26 cooperates with underlooper 2?. to intercept and carry, or spread, the thread loop of the underlooper for the succeeding needle penetration. It was also pointed out that in the conversion, this spreading action is extended rightwardly past the edge of the work to the region in which the vertical looper 1G4 oscillates for its interception of the thread loop of the underlooper 22.

While it may be possible to alter he eccentric which provides the reciprocating movement of the spreader finger in the unmodified machine, because of the physical arrangement of the parts in the bed of the machine, it is more feasible, at least for a conversion, to provide greater lateral excursion of the spreader bar 23 in other ways. The presently preferred approach is that shown mainly in FIGS. 5 and 6.

Utilizing that approach, spreader bar 24 remains journalled in its original hearings in the bed of the machine, but its yoke-end connection with the cross-shaft is disconnected and replaced by other reciprocating mechanism operated from drive box 42. As seen in FIGS. 5 and 6, a curved arm lit connects the yoke-end of the bar 23 with a downwardly depending arm 111 which passes through slot in plate-section 15b and is fixed 11 on the shaft 70 which is driven by eccentric 64. Eccentric 64 can obviously be provided with the amount of eccentricity necessary to provide the increased extent of reciprocation of spreader bar 23.

Two other approaches are shown in FIGS. 13 and 15 and F168. 14 and 16, respectively. In these versions, spreader bar 24 retains its original connection with the cross-shaft driving mechanism, but spreader finger 26 is removed therefrom and its function is taken over by other types of spreader fingers.

. In the version shown in F168. 13 and 15, the replacement finger 125a is rocked about a horizontal axis and in the version-shown in'FlGS. 14 and 16, replacement finger 12% is rocked about a vertical axis. In both in stances, arm 111 is moved out on shaft 70 so that it is disposed to operate in the clearance notch 45 in platesection 1512 instead of through slot 44.

In FIGS. 13 and 15, a stud shaft, 112 is fixed horizontally in bed 1 and a curved support arm 114 is oscillatably mounted thereon. Spreader finger 126a-is mounted on the upper free end of arm 114 in position to intercept the underlooper thread loop and to carry it to the right in substantially the same manner as spreader finger 26 does. A double ball-jointed rod 116 connects the projecting boss 115 on arm 114 with arm 111 to rock arm. 114 about its horizontal pivot when eccentric 64 is rotated.

In the version shown in FIGS. 14 and 16, a support block 118 is secured to cutter support bracket 48. Block 118 is provided with a bore in which shaft 119 is vertically journalled. Shaft 119 is joined to a support bar 120 on the top of which spreader finger 12612 is mounted. A double ball-jointed bent rod 121 connects bar 120 with arm 111 to oscillate spreader finger 126b as eccen tric 64 rotates.

As previously noted, eccentric 64 can be provided with the degree of eccentricity necessary to accomplish the required excursion of spreader fingers 126a. or 126b.

Another version is not illustrated. Swing bracket 85 could be extended downwardly and toward the front of the machine to provide a support for either a horizontal or vertical bearing for a member similar either to arm 114 or bar 120, and the original drive connections for arm 114 or bar 120 could be suitably modified to provide the necessary concurrent oscillation of' the spreader finger.

The Cutting Mechanism As seen in FIGS. 4 and 8, movable cutter actuating shaft 82 extends through the large boss 130 at the left rear side of drive box t2, and adjacent the end of boss 13%, shaft 82 carries a bracket 131 clamped thereto (see FIG. 12). Bracket 13 1 has a horizontally disposed yoked portion (see FIG. 3) in which a bellcrank lever type of movable cutter support 132 is pivotally mounted. Support 13-2 extends forwardly in front of the needles and at its forward extremity, carries movable cutter blade 134 which has a downwardly projecting, tongue 135 (see FIG. 12) long enough to retain engagement with the cutting face of the stationary cutter blade regardless of the extent of cutting stroke.

Cutter blade 134 is maintained in cutting contact with I the stationary cutter by pressure exerted on support 132 at the far side of its pivotal mounting, by screw 136 a which is adjustably threaded into a U-shape member 138 pivotally mounted about the yoked section of bracket 131. Because of innate elasticity and the length of support 132, this arrangement affords resilient engagement of the cutter members, although obviously, more conventional methods for obtaining resilient engagement could be used.

Support bracket 48 mounted on front wall 46 of the machine bed 1 is provided with a recess in which stationary cutter blade 139' is adjustably mounted. (see FIG. 12) in position both with respect to movable cutter Needles 11 and 12 are threaded in the conventional manner using thread tensions and 11 respectively.

When the upper thread manipulating member 91' is threaded, tension 152 is used. Similarly, vertical looper 1134 is threaded utilizing thread tension 154', and the urn derloopers 21 and-'22 are threaded using tensions 155 and 156 respectively.

Various thread guides are disposed about the machine and since their use isconventionaland well understood, they will not be detailed. Thread take-ups are not illustrated or described since their use also is, well known,

and per se, do not enter into the invention.

7 Operation Concurrently with the functioning of the stitching elements, operation of movable cutter blade 134 downwardly against stationary cutter blade 139 will trim the edge of the work neatly and uniformly in advance of the formation of the overedge stitching about the edge of the work. a

The cooperation of needle 11, underlooper 21 and spreader finger 25 to form a two-thread chainstitch seam inwardly spaced from the edge of the work has been sufiiciently indicated previously to require no further elaboration.

Assuming that the elements which enter into the formation of the overedge stitching have been threaded and their respective tensions suitably adjusted, the sequence of interactions is substantially as follows. Since many of these steps are performed simultaneously, or so nearly so, either slightly before or after simultaneity, it should be understood that the order in which they are detailed may vary somewhat without affecting the formation of the over-edge stitching so long as the critical interceptions occur.

It should be borne in mind that the take-ups are effective to'draw up whatever slack exists in the threads after their respective loops are, shed, and that the feed action of the machine begins approximately after the point of the needle passes through the work and the needle-plate and thatit continues concurrently with the operation of the other elements until the needle again leaves the work.

It will be convenient to assume that two stitches preceding the formation of the complete stitch, are in the course of completion. The following then relates to the completion of those two stitches, the complete formation ofthe third stitch, and the early stages of the formation of the fourth succeeding stitch, the description covering 720 degrees of main-shaft rotation, with the 360 degree stitch overlap previously mentioned.

When the overedge needle 12 is at its highest point and just about to begin its descent, upper looper 91 (it being assumed that it is a threaded looper), is at the left end of its stroke in position for interception by needle 12 of the thread carried by looper 91 as the last stage in the formation of the first stitch. Vertical looper 194 is in a position at'which its point is just below the surface of the needle-plate and is about to move downwardly (when it moves downwardly, its thread which has been previously intercepted by the upper looperi91 is formed into a thread loop about the body of looper 91). Underlooper 22 is about to move rearwardly from its most forward position; Spreader finger 26 (or 126a or 126b as the case may be), is about to or has just previously interneedle thread loop. T

cepted the thread of underlooper 22 to begin the formation of the thread triangle for the second stitch. This state may be considered as zero degrees of rotation of the main-shaft.

The parts begin their respective movements. The point of needle 22 passes downwardly between the side of looper 91 and the thread carried by it, to intercept this thread and to lock it on the surface of the work to complete the formation of the first stitch. The needle con tinues downwardly through the work and when its point is just flush with the surface of the needle-plate, the mainshaft has rotated about sixty degrees. The upper looper 1 meanwhile has been noving to the right; the underlooper 23;. has been travelling to the rear, and spreader finger ihas drawn one corner of the second stitch thread triangle fully to the right, past the trimmed edge of the work, into the region at which the vertical loop-er 1% can now move upwardly to intercept this thread triangle as'one of the last stages in the formation of the second stitch. In this interval, the vertical Ilooper has been moving downwardly to the bottom of its stroke,'shedding the thread triangle of the first stitch just before the vertical looper reaches the bottom of its stroke.

As the r sin-shaft rotates through the next sixty degrees, needle 18 moves downwardly into the just formed second stitch thread triangle, and simultaneously, the vertical looper moves upwardly into it. lvieanwhile, the it per looper continues its movement to the right, shedding the loop of the vertical looper from the first stitch on the way back. During this interval, the spreader finger continues to hold the corner of the t read triangle and the underlooper is travelling to the rear.

As the main-shaft moves through the next thirty degrees, the eedle nears the bottom of its stroke, the underlooper still moving rearwardl sheds the needle thread loop of the second stitch, and the vertical looper, now on its way up, reaches a position at which its point is about flush with the surface of the needle-plate. The upper looper has almost reached the right end of its stroke.

The mainshaft continues to rotate to the one hundred eighty degree point, at which instant, the needle is at the bottom of its stroke, the underlooper is at the rear of its stroke, the upper looper is at the right end of its stroke, but the vertical looper has not quite reached the upper end of its stroke.

During the next thirty degrees of main-shaft rotation, the needle reverses direction and begins its ascent. Shortly thereafte the needl thread loop forms for the third stitch, and the underlooper reaches a forw rd position at which its point iust intercepts this newly formed spreader finger is now moving leftwardly, releasing the second. stitcl thread triangle which is now retained about the bodies of the needle and the vertical looper. The vertical looper continues its rise and the upper looper has just begun to move to the left.

in the next sixty degrees of main-shaft rotation, the needle continues its ascent point ust reaches the surface of the needle-plate. Meanwhile, the underlooper has intercepted the third stitch needle thread loop inserting its thread 'herethrough and continuing forwardly. The spreader finger has reached its extreme left position, and the vertical looper is at the top of its stroke and the upper looper moving leftwardly is just about to intercept the thread of the vertical looper, as one of the stages in the formation of the second stitch.

As the needle continues its ascent through the next sixty degrees of main-shaft rotation, the underloopcr continues forwardly and the spreader finger intercepts the underlooper thread to begin the formation of the thread triangle for the third stitch. Meanwh le, the upper loop-er intercepts the vertical looper thread for the second stitch and is just about to reach the path of reciprocation of the needle. When the maiushaft reaches i l r the 360 degree position, the needle has reached its highest level with the upper looper in position for interception of the upper loo-per thread on the next needle descent. At this time, the vertical looper is just starting downwardly.

During the next 360 degrees of main-shaft rotation, the needle on its next descent will intercept the upper looper thread to complete the second stitch and continue through the work and into the third stitch underlooper thread triangle; the vertical looper will also intercept this same thread triangle and thereafter proceed upwardly adjacent the edge of the work to present its thread to the upper looper for interception, and just as the needle again reaches its highest position at the end of this second 360 degree rotation of the main-shaft, the needle will be in position to intercept the upper :looper thread to lock the latter on the surface of the work on its next descent to complete the formation of the third stitch.

During this second 360 degree period, however, since the needle will have formed a new needle thread loop and the underlooper will have intercepted it, and the spreader finger will have drawn the underlooper thread into a new thread triangle, a substantial portion of the fourth stitch will have been produced. What remains to complete the fourth stitch during the next 360 degrees of main-shaft rotation is the successive interceptions of the underlooper thread by the vertical looper, of the vertical looper thread by the upper looper, and the needle interception of the upper looper thread.

It may be seen that when a series of stitches is started, that the preceding thread loops of the upper looper or of the upper looper and the vertical looper may be missing and so the very first stitch that is formed will be incomplete. However, once the sequential interceptions are occurring in the order outlined, for each stitch cycle of the chainstitching, a complete overedge stitch will also be formed, although the interceptions will be spaced over a period of two stitch cycles of the chainstitching.

T he Seams The seams that may be formed with a mach ne moditied in accordance with the foregoing are shown in FIGS. 18, 19, 2t and 21. FIGS. 18 and 19 show respectively the top surface or" four and three thread edge covering stitching, whereas PEG. 20 shows the undersurface for the four thread version. The three thread version is much the same. PEG. 21 shows a version in which, the underlooper thread of the chainstitching has been carried into the path of interception of the overedge needle. This provides a stabilizing seam of greater elasticity for use in such portions of garments where this additional elasticity is of advantage.

The threads in the seams are identified as follows. The chainstitch needle thread is and the enchained underlooper thread is 166. in the overedge scam, the needle thread is 16%, the underlooper thread is 169, the vertical looper thread is 176 and the upper looper thread is 171.

What is claimed, is:

1. An overedge sewing machine having a work support; a threaded reciprocating needle operating therethrongh adapted to form needle thread loops on the undersurface or" the work; a threaded nnderlooper under the work support arranged to move along a line parallel to the line of stitching and to intercept said needle thread loops and to pass the undenlooper thread therethrougn; a spreader member adapted to seize the underlooper thread and to transport it as a thread loop to and beyond the edge of the work; and means for intercepting the transported underlooper thread loop to carry said thread loop upwardly and across the surface of the work into the path of reciprocation of the needle for interception thereby to complete the formation of an overedge stitch.

2. An overedge sewing machine having a work support; a threaded reciprocating needle operating therethrough adapted to form thread loops on the undersurface of the work; .a threaded un'derlooper under the work support arranged to move along a line parallel to the line of stitching and to intercept said needle thread loops and to pass the underlooper thread therethrough; a spreader member adapted to seize the underlooper thread and to transport it as a thread loop to and beyond the edge of the work; a threaded. vertically reciprocating looper adapted to intercept the transported underlooper thread loop and to pass its own thread therethrough upwardly adjacent the edge of the work; an upper thread carrying looper operating above the work support adapted to. intercept the thread of the vertically reciprocating looper and to carry a thread into the path of reciprocation of the needle for interception thereby to complete the formation of an overedge stitch.

3. An operating cycle for an overedge sewing machine having a main-shaft; a'work support; a threaded reciprocating needle operating theretlirough adapted to form thread loops on'rthe undersurface of the work; a threaded underlocper under the work support arranged to move along aline' parallelto the line of stitching and to intercept said needle thread'loops and to pass the underlooper thread therethrough; a spreader member. adapted to seize the underlooper thread and to transport it as a thread loop to and beyond the edge of the work; said needle, underlooper' and spreader member being operated in a one-to-one relationship with the operating speed of said main-shaft; a threaded vertical-1y reciprocating looper adapted to intercept the transported underlooper thread and to pass its own thread theretlnough upwardly past the edge of the work; "an upper thread carrying looper adapted to intercept the thread of the vertically reciprocating looper and to carry a thread into the path of reciprocation of said needle for interception thereby to complete the formationvof an overedge stitch; said vertically reciprocating looper. and said upper looper also operating at a one-towns relationship with the operating speed of the main-shaft; said needle, underlooper and spreader performing their respective portions of the formation of an overedge stitch during one 360 degree rotation of said main-shaft, and said vertically reciprocating looper, upper looper and needle performing their respective portions completing the formation of the same stitch during the succeeding 360 degrees of rotation of i said main-shaft.

ranged to insert the thread of each underlooper through a thread loop of its corresponding needle after said thread loops have been formed; spreader members associated 'with each of said underloopers for seizing and transporting the thread of each of said underloopers to form corresponding underlooper thread loops through which the needle respectively cooperating with each of said underloopers passes on its next descent below the work sup- .porting surface;,and.additional means for converting one of. said underlooper thread loops into an edge covering stitch, comprising mechanism for transporting said last mentioned underlooper thread loop to and beyond the edge of the work; means for inserting the thread of a I threaded vertically'reciprocating looper through said last mentioned underlooper thread loop and forcarrying the thread of said vertically reciprocating looper upwardly adjacent. theedge of the work; means for intercepting the. thread of said vertically reciprocating looper to carry it into the path of reciprocation of the needle cooperating with said last mentioned.lunderlooperlfor interception, by

that needle to complete the formation of a three thread overedge stitch simultaneously with the formation of chain-stitching.

5. A multiple needle stitching machine comprising a bed having a work supporting surface; an arm disposed above said bed terminating in a needle-head; a plurality of threaded reciprocating needles operatively supported in said head; a plurality of threaded underloopers opsaid underloopers passes on its next descent below the' .work supporting surface; and additional means for. converting one of said underlooper thread loops into an edge covering stitch, comprising mechanism for transporting said last mentioned underlooper thread loop to and beyond the edge of the work; means for inserting the thread of a threaded vertically reciprocating looper through said last mentioned underlooper thread loop and for carrying the thread of saidvertically reciprocating looper upwardly adjacent the edge of the work; means for inserting the thread of an upper looper through the thread loop of said vertically reciprocating looper and to carry said thread of said upper looper to the path of reciprocation of the needle cooperating with said last named underlooper for interception by that needle to complete the formation of a four thread overedge stitch simultaneously with, the formation of chainstitching.

6. A needlefeed overedge sewing machine comprising a bed having a work supporting surface; an armdisposed above said bed terminating in a needle-head; a threaded reciprocating needle operatively supported in said needlehead; work feeding mechanism operating through said work supporting surface; cooperating needle-feed mechanism operatively mounted in said arm and said needlehead for swinging said needle in unison with the work feeding mechanism; a threaded underlooper under the work supporting surface arranged to move along a line parallel to the line of stitching and to insert the thread of said underlooper through the thread loop of said needle after said needle thread loop is formed; a spreader mem ber adapted to seize the underlooper thread and to transport it as a thread loop to and beyond the edge of the work; a threaded vertically reciprocating looper adapted to intercept the transported underlooper thread and to pass its own thread therethrough upwardly adjacent the edge of the work; an upper thread carrying looper adapted to intercept the thread of the vertically reciprocating I looper and to carry a thread into the path of reciprocation of said needle for interception thereby to complete the a formation of an overedge stitch; said needle-feed action being effective to transport the Work when said needle is within the work and is passing through the thread loop of said underlooper.

7. A needle-feed overedge sewing machine comprising a bed having a work supporting surface; an arm disposed above said bed terminating in a needle-head; a threaded reciprocating needle operatively supported in said needlehead; work feeding mechanism operating through said work supporting surface; cooperating needle-feed mechanism operatively mounted in said arm and said needlehead for swinging said needle in unison with the work feeding mechanism; a threaded underlooper under the' work supporting surface arranged to move along a line parallel to the line of stitching and to insert the thread of said underlooper through the thread loop of said needle after said needle thread loop is formed; a spreader member adapted to seize the underlooper thread and to trans- 

1. AN OVEREDGE SEWING MACHINE HAVING A WORK SUPPORT; A THREADED RECIPROCATING NEEDLE OPERATING THERETHROUGH ADAPTED TO FORM NEEDLE THREAD LOOPS ON THE UNDERSURFACE OF THE WORK; A THREADED UNDERLOOPER UNDER THE WORK SUPPORT ARRANGED TO MOVE ALONG A LINE PARALLEL TO THE LINE OF STITCHING AND TO INTERCEPT SAID NEEDLE THREAD LOOPS AND TO PASS THE UNDERLOOPER THREAD THERETHROUGH; A SPREADER MEMBER ADAPTED TO SEIZE THE UNDERLOOPER THREAD AND TO TRANSPORT IT AS A THREAD LOOP TO AND BEYOND THE EDGE OF THE WORK; AND MEANS FOR INTERCEPTING THE TRANSPORTED UNDERLOOPER THREAD LOOP TO CARRY SAID THREAD LOOP UPWARDLY AND ACROSS THE SURFACE OF THE WORK INTO THE PATH OF RECIPROCATION OF THE NEEDLE FOR INTERCEPTION THEREBY TO COMPLETE THE FORMATION OF AN OVEREDGE STITCH. 